Saturday 13 December 2008

20 hours in Santiago, Chile....

A stop over before heading to former homeland...New Zealand..

sitting in Internet bar....32 degrees outside...swealtering...hot...
the streets are packed with last minute christmas shoppers..
headed back to Plaza de Armas...central square...always a good starting point..
learnt more of the Chilean history in one of the museums...
took in the beautiful architecture of the main cathedral...
people watched in the central square...
chilling in the many cafes...

definitely better than being stuck in an airport....

See you all in New Zealand...on 15th December !!

Hasta Leugo Peru....

Cant quite believe, the amazing, fun packed 3 weeks have come to an end....

Spent the last 2 days in Lima, reminiscing, taking in a bit more of the history of the Pre Inca period....

yes...those 12000 years before Inca...hehehe..which many forget..at Huaca Pucllana...in central Lima.

Learnt about the different styles in their buildings but amazed once again how they managed to build structures earthquake proof. Also, realised more women and children were sacrificed.. this time to the Sea Gods...

Chilled on the beaches of Miraflores....last glimpse of sunlight for Shuba...

And...then ended the experience in style... by attending a fountain and light show in one of Lima´s parks and danced the night away, with our new found friend, Lidia, listening to the sounds of a local salsa band.......

Hasta Luego Peru....

The White City...Arequipa..

As we count down our days in Peru, we finish with a taste of local culture in the White City, Arequipa, named after the its white volcanic stone, Sillar.

Surrounded by volcanoes....and I have to say it...more Plazas...squares..churches..fountains...hehehe... sensing a pattern yet??

but... giving Arequipa a break from the usual Spanish Colonial influence, it takes pride in having the most beautiful Central Square, Plaza de Armas, in the whole of South America... then again...not sure who rated it...hehehehe..

We are so fortunate to meet Lidia´s sisters, Angelica and Roxanna, who were both born and raised in this city. They took us on board like long lost children despite not knowing a word of English....yup...I´m so thankful for those two months of Spanish lessons!!! A blessing!

Thanks to their endless kindness, we tasted local dishes, met their families, were welcomed into their homes...and wait for this.... danced the ..afternoon ...away in their local hang out...

Sorry, did I mention Roxanna is in her 40´s with a beautiful 9 year old daughter, Sophia, and Angelica is in her 50´s and a proud grandmother....hehehe...put us all to shame with their dancing spirit.

With local knowledge in hand, we checked out the two most important tourist attractions...the Museum which holds the Mummy Juanita and the Santa Catalina Monastery.

I would have to rate this museum as one of the best in the world....for the sheer closeness to the Incan way of life.

Juanita, was a 12 year old girl, who was sacrificed by the Incas, to make peace with Mountain Gods at around 1440. She was buried at around 6000 feet but with the activity of the volcano, rolled out of her grave and was discovered by anthropologist, Johan Reinhard, in southern Peru.

As you are guided through the museum, you learn more of the Incan sacrifices of children and women. You are amazed to find there were around 18 bodies found but the most well preserved was Juanita. You are shown her clothing and the many artefacts that were buried around the children.

However, little do you realise, you can actually see Juanita, preserved in below 20 degrees centigrade. Incredible. The closest you will ever be to an Incan..

Tuesday 9 December 2008

The Inca Empire...

Cusco is the gateway to the famous Inca Ruins lining the Sacred Valley.

Just a few stats to grasp the altitude. Cusco sits at approximately 3,300 m and the Sacred Valley´s elevation is approx 2,500 m. General advise to combat SOROCHE or altitude sickness is time, lots of water, less alcohol and eat regularly as you can lose your appetite.

The Inca Civilization began around 1200AD and Cusco became its political and religious capital until the Spanish arrived in 1533. The Incas laid out the city in the shape of a Puma, their sacred animal.

I guess the closest ruins to the city is Sacsayhuaman, lying on the hillsides rising above Cusco. What astounds most tourists is the impressive stone work which fits together perfectly without mortar. Also, it´s a great opportunity to get your cameras our for fabulous views over Cusco city with the mountains as a backdrop.

Further a field, but en route on the city tour, lie more ruins of Puca Pucara, the Red Fort, and Tambo Machay which bear examples of Inca baths.

A local bus ride away, costing just 2 sols, sits Pisac, the famous handicraft market town, which appears to cater to truck loads of tourists, but worth the visit for the atmosphere and a glimpse of local women in their gorgeous traditional attire. Yes....and there are more ruins here... gradually getting stoned out...hehhee..

I vividly remember being perched on a balcony, sipping limonada to cool ourselves down, resembling CIA New York, as we sneakily grab photos of the locals...hehehe

The train from Aguas Calientes, the town closes to Machu Picchu, stops at Ollantaytambo, another town boasting Inca Ruins. Here we hail a taxi for our 90 minute journey, spoilt for spectacular views of the valley and mountains, to head back to Cusco. An extra tip was required for our patient taxi driver...not for constantly stopping for photos...but for us singing out loud to UB40...heheheh....

However, the ultimate ruins are of course Machu Picchu. Hence, it´s probably advisable to check out the Sacred Valley before you start your pilgrimage to incredible Machu Picchu...

Enjoy...

Monday 8 December 2008

Magical Cusco.....

I think we can unanimously agree that from the moment we stepped onto Cusco soil, we fell in love with it....

I guess its the Spanish Colonial Architecture, the many squares dotted with fountains surrounded by hilly cobbled stoned streets....arches..churches...the mountains... the smiles on locals who continue to wear their traditional attire of large flowing skirts, hats, hair in plaits and carry their children in slings on their backs.... the warmth of the people...but more importantly ..the safety...

It´s truly magical at night when the hills turn into fairy lights, the fountains are on full blast and you can hear the pipe music in the background...

We were lucky to have met some new found friends who work at Maximo Nivel, the school I attended in Costa Rica, which happened to have their main branch in Cusco. Chris and Carlene were incredibly hospitable to show us the main hot night spots in town...The Fallen Angel...a very funky bar and restaurant with tables made of bath tubs filled with water and live fish.... and..great Mango Margaritas!!

Hasta Luego Cusco!!

Sunday 7 December 2008

In the JUNGLE......

Just to add more variety and diversity to our trip, we head to the Amazon Jungle, Tambopata Nature Reserve, accessible from Puerto Maldonado which is just a 30 minute plane ride away from Cusco.

What a transformation, from wintery clothes, to trying desperately not to sweat...hehehe ....and fighting off mosquitoes...

We were greeted by our tour guide amongst the hustle and bustle of fellow taxi drivers desperate to earn some cash. Little did we know about the journey to
Sandoval Lake Lodge...

A bus ride to the shores of the Tambopata river to take the 45 minute boat ride where we eat our lunch which comprised fried rice wrapped in banana leaves....what a pleasant surprise...

Provided with wellington boots, we begin our sweaty 45 minute trek through the muddy jungle and have flashes of LOST in our minds...hehee..

and finally the last leg was by a 30 minute canoe journey on the Sandoval ox bow lake....

Tranquil, stunning reflections of the palms lining the lake, sounds of the Red Howler Monkeys swinging from tree to tree, the occasional heron sweeping past us as the rowers gracefully cross the lake.......ahhhhh...we are truly transported to another world...

The 3 day, 4 night package is worth every penny, as the nights and days are packed with tours to discover wildlife in their natural habitat. Either walks in the jungle to learn about vegetation, for example, tasting the bark of the quinine tree, tapping the rubber tree... spotting tarantulas and snakes... or taking the catamaran across the lake to see the otters fighting for fish or catching the eyes of the caimans as they laze along its shores....oh...must not forget the blue and yellow macaws at 5.30 in the morning!!!

At times it´s hard to believe we are in their natural habitat ....and actually think we are about to enter another part of Disneyworld...hehehe......

As we begin our trek back to the airport..yup...the canoe, boat ride, jungle trek , we are eager to discover another secret of Peru, Arequipa, the white volcanic city...
just 3 plane rides away....

Monday 1 December 2008

Impressions of Lima

Hugely impressed as we land in this well loved metropolis... but soon whisked away
to the affluent area of Miraflore lying on the shores of the Pacific, perhaps a more skewed view of Lima, Peru.

You really could be in any part of the world with high rise buildings, shopping malls and exquisite restaurants boasting great views of the ocean..

We were very lucky to have a contact, Lidia, a Peruvian, who showed the sights and sounds of downtown Lima. She herself insisted how improved Lima has become in the last 10 years as she herself could not walk in the squares without being hassled by young homeless children.

We tasted the local Pisco Sour in one of the oldest hotels of Lima, strolled through the squares to arrive at the Presidents Residence to see the changing of the guards.

How fortunate to spend a weekend in Lima when 21 presidents of the world decided to convene for APEC. We have never felt so safe!

The streets were adorned with Spanish colonial architecture, wide lanes and immaculately clean. Truly impressed with the security and the friendliness of the Peruvians and shocked by the extent of the Japanese migration.

INCA TRAIL......We did it !!!!!!!!!!

Im sitting here now, beaming with pride, feeling on top of the world, rubbing aching joints but wearing a huge smile on my face as I can now yell to the world...

WE SURVIVED THE INCA TRAIL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

A lifetime ambition accomplished...the sense of achievement as you take a first glance of Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate on Day 4 at 6.30 in the morning, is just priceless....

I think it was a unanimous feeling that we all deserved private use and view of Machu Picchu for our incredible efforts rather than those taking the train or bus to see this world heritage site...

Recollecting memories of the trail... www.sastravelperu.com/english/inkatrail.html

..the shock of realising Day 1 is actually an easy day as we try desperately to keep up with the fast walkers and acclimatise to high altitude..

...the constant banter with fellow trekkers as we continue to encourage and tease one another...

the patience of our team leaders...as we stop for photos...giggles....and a good ole gossip...and a quick dance with our poles...in the midst of outstanding views of the mountains...

the tears in our eyes as we reach 4200 metres, dead womans pass, alive, breathing, having just realised whats ahead of us...a steep and treacherous 3 hour descent ..in the rain....

..feeling incredibly grateful for our guides and porters ..as they run along with at least 20 kilos on their backs...and here we stand ... in admiration..with just walking sticks..panting...with aching muscles...

..truly impressed...as we sit for dinner...on stools...at a table...in our dining tent..in the middle of nowhere...being served a 3 course meal.... astounding....

Ive enclosed the link for all to gain an idea of the altitude and the hours of walking we did. It was amazing how we just got on with it, knowing our prize was soon to be collected.

What really helped was pacing ourselves, enjoying the view and each others company.

Till today, I still cant believe we have realised one of our dreams.....

Till today, I still feel the ruins are just extra special because of the enormous effort we put into it...

I feel anything is now possible....