Saturday, 13 December 2008

20 hours in Santiago, Chile....

A stop over before heading to former homeland...New Zealand..

sitting in Internet bar....32 degrees outside...swealtering...hot...
the streets are packed with last minute christmas shoppers..
headed back to Plaza de Armas...central square...always a good starting point..
learnt more of the Chilean history in one of the museums...
took in the beautiful architecture of the main cathedral...
people watched in the central square...
chilling in the many cafes...

definitely better than being stuck in an airport....

See you all in New Zealand...on 15th December !!

Hasta Leugo Peru....

Cant quite believe, the amazing, fun packed 3 weeks have come to an end....

Spent the last 2 days in Lima, reminiscing, taking in a bit more of the history of the Pre Inca period....

yes...those 12000 years before Inca...hehehe..which many forget..at Huaca Pucllana...in central Lima.

Learnt about the different styles in their buildings but amazed once again how they managed to build structures earthquake proof. Also, realised more women and children were sacrificed.. this time to the Sea Gods...

Chilled on the beaches of Miraflores....last glimpse of sunlight for Shuba...

And...then ended the experience in style... by attending a fountain and light show in one of Lima´s parks and danced the night away, with our new found friend, Lidia, listening to the sounds of a local salsa band.......

Hasta Luego Peru....

The White City...Arequipa..

As we count down our days in Peru, we finish with a taste of local culture in the White City, Arequipa, named after the its white volcanic stone, Sillar.

Surrounded by volcanoes....and I have to say it...more Plazas...squares..churches..fountains...hehehe... sensing a pattern yet??

but... giving Arequipa a break from the usual Spanish Colonial influence, it takes pride in having the most beautiful Central Square, Plaza de Armas, in the whole of South America... then again...not sure who rated it...hehehehe..

We are so fortunate to meet Lidia´s sisters, Angelica and Roxanna, who were both born and raised in this city. They took us on board like long lost children despite not knowing a word of English....yup...I´m so thankful for those two months of Spanish lessons!!! A blessing!

Thanks to their endless kindness, we tasted local dishes, met their families, were welcomed into their homes...and wait for this.... danced the ..afternoon ...away in their local hang out...

Sorry, did I mention Roxanna is in her 40´s with a beautiful 9 year old daughter, Sophia, and Angelica is in her 50´s and a proud grandmother....hehehe...put us all to shame with their dancing spirit.

With local knowledge in hand, we checked out the two most important tourist attractions...the Museum which holds the Mummy Juanita and the Santa Catalina Monastery.

I would have to rate this museum as one of the best in the world....for the sheer closeness to the Incan way of life.

Juanita, was a 12 year old girl, who was sacrificed by the Incas, to make peace with Mountain Gods at around 1440. She was buried at around 6000 feet but with the activity of the volcano, rolled out of her grave and was discovered by anthropologist, Johan Reinhard, in southern Peru.

As you are guided through the museum, you learn more of the Incan sacrifices of children and women. You are amazed to find there were around 18 bodies found but the most well preserved was Juanita. You are shown her clothing and the many artefacts that were buried around the children.

However, little do you realise, you can actually see Juanita, preserved in below 20 degrees centigrade. Incredible. The closest you will ever be to an Incan..

Tuesday, 9 December 2008

The Inca Empire...

Cusco is the gateway to the famous Inca Ruins lining the Sacred Valley.

Just a few stats to grasp the altitude. Cusco sits at approximately 3,300 m and the Sacred Valley´s elevation is approx 2,500 m. General advise to combat SOROCHE or altitude sickness is time, lots of water, less alcohol and eat regularly as you can lose your appetite.

The Inca Civilization began around 1200AD and Cusco became its political and religious capital until the Spanish arrived in 1533. The Incas laid out the city in the shape of a Puma, their sacred animal.

I guess the closest ruins to the city is Sacsayhuaman, lying on the hillsides rising above Cusco. What astounds most tourists is the impressive stone work which fits together perfectly without mortar. Also, it´s a great opportunity to get your cameras our for fabulous views over Cusco city with the mountains as a backdrop.

Further a field, but en route on the city tour, lie more ruins of Puca Pucara, the Red Fort, and Tambo Machay which bear examples of Inca baths.

A local bus ride away, costing just 2 sols, sits Pisac, the famous handicraft market town, which appears to cater to truck loads of tourists, but worth the visit for the atmosphere and a glimpse of local women in their gorgeous traditional attire. Yes....and there are more ruins here... gradually getting stoned out...hehhee..

I vividly remember being perched on a balcony, sipping limonada to cool ourselves down, resembling CIA New York, as we sneakily grab photos of the locals...hehehe

The train from Aguas Calientes, the town closes to Machu Picchu, stops at Ollantaytambo, another town boasting Inca Ruins. Here we hail a taxi for our 90 minute journey, spoilt for spectacular views of the valley and mountains, to head back to Cusco. An extra tip was required for our patient taxi driver...not for constantly stopping for photos...but for us singing out loud to UB40...heheheh....

However, the ultimate ruins are of course Machu Picchu. Hence, it´s probably advisable to check out the Sacred Valley before you start your pilgrimage to incredible Machu Picchu...

Enjoy...

Monday, 8 December 2008

Magical Cusco.....

I think we can unanimously agree that from the moment we stepped onto Cusco soil, we fell in love with it....

I guess its the Spanish Colonial Architecture, the many squares dotted with fountains surrounded by hilly cobbled stoned streets....arches..churches...the mountains... the smiles on locals who continue to wear their traditional attire of large flowing skirts, hats, hair in plaits and carry their children in slings on their backs.... the warmth of the people...but more importantly ..the safety...

It´s truly magical at night when the hills turn into fairy lights, the fountains are on full blast and you can hear the pipe music in the background...

We were lucky to have met some new found friends who work at Maximo Nivel, the school I attended in Costa Rica, which happened to have their main branch in Cusco. Chris and Carlene were incredibly hospitable to show us the main hot night spots in town...The Fallen Angel...a very funky bar and restaurant with tables made of bath tubs filled with water and live fish.... and..great Mango Margaritas!!

Hasta Luego Cusco!!

Sunday, 7 December 2008

In the JUNGLE......

Just to add more variety and diversity to our trip, we head to the Amazon Jungle, Tambopata Nature Reserve, accessible from Puerto Maldonado which is just a 30 minute plane ride away from Cusco.

What a transformation, from wintery clothes, to trying desperately not to sweat...hehehe ....and fighting off mosquitoes...

We were greeted by our tour guide amongst the hustle and bustle of fellow taxi drivers desperate to earn some cash. Little did we know about the journey to
Sandoval Lake Lodge...

A bus ride to the shores of the Tambopata river to take the 45 minute boat ride where we eat our lunch which comprised fried rice wrapped in banana leaves....what a pleasant surprise...

Provided with wellington boots, we begin our sweaty 45 minute trek through the muddy jungle and have flashes of LOST in our minds...hehee..

and finally the last leg was by a 30 minute canoe journey on the Sandoval ox bow lake....

Tranquil, stunning reflections of the palms lining the lake, sounds of the Red Howler Monkeys swinging from tree to tree, the occasional heron sweeping past us as the rowers gracefully cross the lake.......ahhhhh...we are truly transported to another world...

The 3 day, 4 night package is worth every penny, as the nights and days are packed with tours to discover wildlife in their natural habitat. Either walks in the jungle to learn about vegetation, for example, tasting the bark of the quinine tree, tapping the rubber tree... spotting tarantulas and snakes... or taking the catamaran across the lake to see the otters fighting for fish or catching the eyes of the caimans as they laze along its shores....oh...must not forget the blue and yellow macaws at 5.30 in the morning!!!

At times it´s hard to believe we are in their natural habitat ....and actually think we are about to enter another part of Disneyworld...hehehe......

As we begin our trek back to the airport..yup...the canoe, boat ride, jungle trek , we are eager to discover another secret of Peru, Arequipa, the white volcanic city...
just 3 plane rides away....

Monday, 1 December 2008

Impressions of Lima

Hugely impressed as we land in this well loved metropolis... but soon whisked away
to the affluent area of Miraflore lying on the shores of the Pacific, perhaps a more skewed view of Lima, Peru.

You really could be in any part of the world with high rise buildings, shopping malls and exquisite restaurants boasting great views of the ocean..

We were very lucky to have a contact, Lidia, a Peruvian, who showed the sights and sounds of downtown Lima. She herself insisted how improved Lima has become in the last 10 years as she herself could not walk in the squares without being hassled by young homeless children.

We tasted the local Pisco Sour in one of the oldest hotels of Lima, strolled through the squares to arrive at the Presidents Residence to see the changing of the guards.

How fortunate to spend a weekend in Lima when 21 presidents of the world decided to convene for APEC. We have never felt so safe!

The streets were adorned with Spanish colonial architecture, wide lanes and immaculately clean. Truly impressed with the security and the friendliness of the Peruvians and shocked by the extent of the Japanese migration.

INCA TRAIL......We did it !!!!!!!!!!

Im sitting here now, beaming with pride, feeling on top of the world, rubbing aching joints but wearing a huge smile on my face as I can now yell to the world...

WE SURVIVED THE INCA TRAIL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

A lifetime ambition accomplished...the sense of achievement as you take a first glance of Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate on Day 4 at 6.30 in the morning, is just priceless....

I think it was a unanimous feeling that we all deserved private use and view of Machu Picchu for our incredible efforts rather than those taking the train or bus to see this world heritage site...

Recollecting memories of the trail... www.sastravelperu.com/english/inkatrail.html

..the shock of realising Day 1 is actually an easy day as we try desperately to keep up with the fast walkers and acclimatise to high altitude..

...the constant banter with fellow trekkers as we continue to encourage and tease one another...

the patience of our team leaders...as we stop for photos...giggles....and a good ole gossip...and a quick dance with our poles...in the midst of outstanding views of the mountains...

the tears in our eyes as we reach 4200 metres, dead womans pass, alive, breathing, having just realised whats ahead of us...a steep and treacherous 3 hour descent ..in the rain....

..feeling incredibly grateful for our guides and porters ..as they run along with at least 20 kilos on their backs...and here we stand ... in admiration..with just walking sticks..panting...with aching muscles...

..truly impressed...as we sit for dinner...on stools...at a table...in our dining tent..in the middle of nowhere...being served a 3 course meal.... astounding....

Ive enclosed the link for all to gain an idea of the altitude and the hours of walking we did. It was amazing how we just got on with it, knowing our prize was soon to be collected.

What really helped was pacing ourselves, enjoying the view and each others company.

Till today, I still cant believe we have realised one of our dreams.....

Till today, I still feel the ruins are just extra special because of the enormous effort we put into it...

I feel anything is now possible....

Saturday, 22 November 2008

Gamboa Rainforest Resort, Panama

Hola chicas...

and I have to add....before I give my update on my 36 hour stopover in Panama city..
I am in Peru!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
I can't quite believe it...

I've just arrived at the impressive airport...and chicos/chicas....there's even a Starbucks here....what..????? I could be in England...apart from everyone speaking Spanish!!!

Yes, just waiting for Shuba to arrive in 2 hours time.....ahhhhhhhhhhhhh

I can't stop screaming!!!!!! Dont worry...not creating a scene...not quite yet..heheheh..

Ok...calm right down...

Panama. Definitely needed more time to discover the sights and sounds of Panama city, but decided to hibernate at the Gamboa Rainforest Resort, along the banks of the River Chagres, stone's throw away from the infamous Panama Canal.

It was definitely SOS time for some serious pampering and recuperation following my 10 days of country hopping around Central America. The many hours in airports, taxis, buses and early morning starts took its toll and so I decided to indulge myself in some 5 star delights of pedicures, hot clean showers, oh so soft bedding and fabulous balcony views...as I prepared for my 3 week hectic schedule in amazing Peru.

I did however, leave with what I intended to see, the Panama Canal. Unimpressive at first glance, but magnificient once a cargo ship passes you by and as you stock up on the impressive history it has to offer. The narrowest crossing from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean. Incredible engineering.

Panama city takes a skyline of New York with its many skyscrapers. A mere glance as I detour to the depths of the rainforest,40 minutes away.

I managed to squeeze in one tour ( yes girls, in between the pedicure and lazing on the porch..hehehe). And oh what a disappointment. I guess once you've seen the rainforests of Costa Rica and Guatemala, this 1 hour tour in a skytrain, is a mere introduction to Central America.

With tears in my eyes, I bid farewell to unbelieveable Central America and welcome my experiences in Amazing Peru.

Hasta Luego....

Wednesday, 19 November 2008

Isla de Ometepe, Nicaragua

The photos say it for themselves...stunning...picturesque..and unbelievable!!!!

Lying in the largest lake in Central America, formed by Volcan Concepcion and Madera, is Isla de Ometepe, a hidden treasure of Nicaragua.

I have to warn all it does take a good 12 hours door to door by bus!!! Leaving San Jose at 5am, reaching the border crossing at 11am, you are confronted by queues at customs on both the Costa Rican and Nicaraguan sides and are sandwiched in between hordes of Money changers. Quite an experience and a great test to our Spanish!!

A great moment of giggles when one of us thought the conductor was introducing the film on the bus when he was actually explaining the process of immigration...hehehehe.... no wonder we didn´t realise what was going on...
but a great trick is to hook onto fellow passengers and just follow the sea of tourists...hehehe.

What a pleasure to arrive on an island without violence, fear and just friendly smiley faces who are eager to help.

We stayed at hotel Istiam or more likely a very basic hostel. We know why travellers hardly have showers...hehehe..just kidding... The first place on earth where they serve food for 20 cordobas which is equivalent to $1!!!

Nicaragua is significantly cheaper than Costa Rica and uses Cordobas but accepts US Dollars. Once again, a huge Spanish influence and famous for Gallo Pinto ( Rice and Beans) and coffee!!

But a fabulous location, on the edge of the beach, sleeping to the sounds of the waves, the strong breeze constantly blowing hair onto your face and you just can´t stop catching glimpses of both magnificent volcanoes ...as you sit for breakfast....

The day tour is highly recommended in order to explore the rest of the highland...stopping at the petroglyphs ( indigenous sketches on stones dating back to over 1000 years), bumpy mud roads, palm trees, Nicaraguans lazing on their porches with the sounds of reggaethon blaring from the car radio...

A day to prepare for Panama...tomorrow...before heading to Peru on Saturday!!

more...Ometepe, Nicaragua...





Thursday, 13 November 2008

and more...of Anitgua, Guatemala.





Images of Antigua..





Highlights of Antigua..

.. the stunning scenery of cobblestone roads, the occasional horse and carriage, the view of church bells with a backdrop of Volcan Agua...

.. impressive ruins of Tikal...

...the colourful attire of the Indigenous Mayan people..

...meeting fellow travellers...exchanging stories...be it at tours, at breakfast or on the streets....

...Salsa lessons...

...strolling the streets of Antigua...taking in the Colonial architecture..the colourful buildings....and being immersed in the rich Mayan culture...

Antigua is stunning, tranquil and safe.....

Hasta Leugo Antigua!!

Wednesday, 12 November 2008

Travellers tales....

My Itinery..

Day 1 ...Arrive in the afternoon as the sunsets over Antigua, Guatemala
Day 2.... Join the tour to Lake Atitlan
Day 3... Lunch with fellow traveller, Maria from Germany.
Private Salsa Lesson at La Salsa
Rambling through the cobbled streets of Antigua
Day 4... Catch the early flight and tour Tikal
Dinner with Macarena and Virginia from Uruguay
Day 5... Morning Salsa Lesson
Taste of Guatemalan food ( Pepian de Pollo - chicken curry with cinnamon
pumpkimn, sesame seeds and corn tamale ) ( Torrejas en Meil - sweet bread
fried and served with syrup)
Day 6... Afternoon City Tour ( Antigua tours) highly recommended as we stroll the
streets discovering ruins, culture and churches of Antigua
Private Salsa Lesson
Day 7... Return to San Jose, Costa Rica
Squeeze in another private Salsa lesson in the morning!!

The Mayan Civilisation of Tikal

... Despite a 4 am start ... We are astounded and truly impressed by the
ancient ruins of the Maya ... Dating back to 250 AD .

Just a few pointers ... Bring lots of mosquito repellent , sunscreen and good walking shoes as we start the 3 hour journey through time ...

It's fascinating and puzzling as you try to understand this once magnificient culture comprising kings , peasants, astronomers and mathematicians ...
who suddenly disappeared ....around 900AD.

It was rediscovered again in 1881 by English archaeologist, Maudslay. Till today, excavation of the many temples continues and are sponsored by various governments.

The size and the number of temples and palaces discovered by archaeologists is extensive compared to Mayan Ruins of Chichen Itza of Mexico.

The day starts with a 6 am flight to Flores. You are greeted by tour guides who take you on a hour journey to the park before starting the guided tour . It's possible to see Tikal in a day which was convenient for me. However, many stay a night to catch another glimpse of the temples as they poke out from the rainforest .( temple 4 )

It´s one the main highlights of Guatemala which cannot be missed!!!!

Monday, 10 November 2008

Beautiful Antigua....

...behind closed wooden doors lies courtyards, fountains and lush greenery..

As you wake up in the morning to the sound of church bells, cars stumbling along the cobble stone roads, you are greeted by the magnificient volcano..Volcan Agua.. which sits south of the city....

..The streets are lined with colourful buildings, rows of souvenir shops and the occasional museum, church or restaurant...

I spent my second day along the shores of Lake Atitlan...similar to Lake Como in Italy...but packed with the indigenous people of Guatemala .. the Maya..in their traditional attire of wrap around skirts and tunics in many colours....speaking one of their 30 or 40 different Maya languages...

At last...some culture in Central America!!!!

Indigenous people make up 60% of the population with their fellow citizens being mixed with Spanish blood. Around 40% of their 13 million population live in Guatemala City and 44% are under 15 years of age!

...just dropped a few facts for the interested to stimulate those brain cells.....hehehehe.....

Off to Tikal to discover the Mayan Civilisation.....

Saturday, 8 November 2008

Hola from Antigua , Guatemala

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh....... Yes another official scream ... Be it silent ... As I land in Guatemala....

Just a note , I am entering these notes in the comfort of my hotel room ( Casa Ovalle) ...
On my itouch !!!!!!!!

Ah! The joys of modern technology !!!

I have just fallen in love with Antigua . The old capital of Guatemala prior to the earthquake ....
And I know it's just been 4 hours ...
But I realise why travellers
never leave......
Thank you Nadia And Sam for persuading me ! I owe you both !

It is a travellers paradise with it's huge Spanish colonial influence with the many
squares and cathedrals . However , you are quickly reminded you are in central America as a child runs across the road in their traditional clothing.

What a relief and joy to be able to walk freely without the fear of being pick pocketed , dodging stray dogs and avoiding pot holes !

What was I doing in San Jose for 2 months!!!!

Off to Lake Atitlan tomorrow...

P.S Thank God for Spanish lessons... ..

Friday, 7 November 2008

So here´s to my last day in Costa Rica..

Can´t actually believe 8 weeks of volunteer work and Spanish lessons are finally over..

A mixture of sadness ....but bottled with excitement as I begin my adventures in Antigua, Guatemala, followed by Ometepe , Nicaragua....then.. ..Panama and finally meeting up with Shuba in Lima Airport, Peru on November 22nd....phew...needed to catch my breath....hehehehe.....

As I reflect on the past 8 weeks.... the moments that seem to stand out are...


The laughter in Spanish classes as we attempt to impress Tedy, our teacher, with our Spanglish...

The shock of realising we can actually consult in Spanish..... yeah!!!!!!

The heartache as we visit patients in unbearable conditions of poverty...

The frustration as we try to rescue a patient from elderly abuse..

The warmth of the sisters of Mother Theresa....

The permanent smile of Amelia, at 94, standing proudly outside her home...a garage...

The laughter of Juan, the pastor, as he continues to uplift the mood of the dying...

The strength of Nick Vijicic ( www.attitudeisaltitude.com ) as we realise each and every moment of his life is a constant challenge...

The realisation of how blessed we are and how many opportunities and choices we have....

The pleasure of meeting students and volunteers from around the world...

The excitement of having friends in many cities........

Hasta luego Costa Rica......

Saturday, 1 November 2008

An adventure...

What a week of events....

From handling a situation of a drunken lady in tears, disorientated and acting like a 5 year old ..
at 4 in the afternoon..

To being pleasantly surprised when a travel agency comes to your doorstep to collect payment...only in Costa Rica!!..

Sipping on a latte as I listen to the stories of the students who are searching for a new life in Costa Rica.... escaping or seeking an adventure...

Smiling as I hear the weather report in London on Capital FM online...whilst drying my hair in sultry hot Costa Rica...

The great feeling of accomplishment as I consult in Spanish.... ...yeah!!!!!!!!!

Seeing the carefree nature and hearing the constant giggles of a 10 year old, living by a railroad, who's only desire is for her mother to have a new kidney...

The sadness of knowing this 10 year old will soon be orphaned...

Wondering why anyone allowed a brain damaged 36 year old to live......

But excited as I book .....
a cycle tour of the old cities of Antigua, Guatemala....

So here's to my last week in Costa Rica!!!!!!!!!

Sunday, 26 October 2008

A touch of culture....

I guess the first culture shock was the women's dress sense...tight ...and I mean..really tight jeans.. with even tighter tops. The story behind is that it accentuates the curves and their feminine side...even if their accessories are bulging out.... a known fact and written in all books....

Secondly, something I have experienced is the well known " Tico Time". This means arriving late, 30mins for appointments and up to several hours for meeting friends.

Family is extremely important to a Tico. It is common practice for the family to live next to a sister or brother, in front of their parents home and with their married children. They prefer to socialise outside of their home. So you rarely see friends popping over!

Ticos hate confrontation and would say "yes " when they mean "no" to avoid a conflict.

When greeting the locals, just remember it's a kiss on one cheek and not both !

Lastly, Ticos are some of the friendliest and warmest people to meet who won't hesitate to use
" con mucho gusto" ( with pleasure ) .

For further guide to customs and etiquette...a must read... is
Culture Shock! by Claire Wallerstein

A weekend retreat in Atenas

Just 40 minutes in a taxi from San Jose, boasting mountain views, coffee plantations and the best weather in Costa Rica.

Gone are the days of 5 hour bus journeys and time for discovering the nearby areas of San Jose.

We stayed in El Cafatel ( http://www.cafetal.com/ ) owned by the eccentric and Che look alike, Romulus.

It was a weekend of waking up to the birds, taking in the fresh air and eating to our hearts content. This hotel is famous for its elaborate breakfasts of tico food; Gallo Pinto ( rice and beans); tamales ( meat wrapped in banana leaves) and french toast ( not quite Tico...but very yummy...)

I just have to add...and some will quietly giggle...I was relieved to hear there were no stray dogs...but as I sat on the porch, alone, with this spectacular view of the valley, thinking to myself , I have just found paradise..... out pops....yes...an Iguana...about 1/2 metre long...hehehe...

Yes...Iguanas....roaming the patios...and if you step into the bushes..monkeys...hehehe..
ahh...the joys of the rainforest...

Monday, 20 October 2008

Volcan Arenal..

That's right guys...

probably the next best tourist attraction Costa Rica has to offer..the magnificent Volcan Arenal..an active volcano, lying the in heart of Costa Rica amongst the rain forest.

A truly impressive sight as you approach on the single road that carries the bus loads of tourists daily from far a field.

It was probably worth the overnight stay to catch a glimpse of the larva...be it red specks...but a great atmosphere as tourists gather at the view point at 6pm to witness Arenal in action.

La Fortuna, one of the few places in Costa Rica, which boasts clean roads, the lack of stray dogs and our prize find, a Viennese Cafe serving quality food whilst playing the likes of Beethoven....
an oasis amongst the chaos ...

However, one cannot leave the area without a visit to the famous hot springs ( aguas thermales). We chose Baldi but there are alternatives such as, Tabacon. (www.costaricatravelplans.com/baldi_hot_springs_la_fortuna_costa_rica_arenal_volcano_hot_springs.html

As we lounge in the hot springs, occasionally sip on wine, take a dip in the pool, soak in the view of Volcan Arenal, we realise 3 hours is not enough !

We sadly leave La Fortuna on Sunday, rejuvenated, preparing ourselves for the daily tropical storms of San Jose.....

....only 15 days to go before the summer begins in Costa Rica....

Unforgettable moments in CR....

... trying to escape from a Pentecostal service without being noticed while desperately thinking of excuses to not to offend the host ..along with seeking solace in midst of an hour of a Michael Jackson thriller video... with meditation...... but getting caught red handed...." bye ladies....thanks for visiting "....hehehehe... ( pentecostal services are very expressive with arms being flung around and people prostrating on the floor...)

.... ahh....and stumbling upon a Viennese cafe....at the foot of a ...volcano....in the heart of Costa Rica...which just so happens to play Mozart... and serves the best sandwich and coffee in Costa Rica....ahhh.. ( Cafe de Vienna...La Fortuna )

...ahhh....one moment please...as I recollect thoughts of laying in a hut...amongst the hot springs of Baldi resort and Spa....having a deep tissue massage...with a view of Volcan Arenal...ahhhh..

Sitting in the only Indian restaurant in Central America, the Taj Mahal, enjoying the naan and curries, watching clips from Hindi films and speaking Spanish....

Wednesday, 15 October 2008

Life...??!!??

I don't think I can express in words what I have just experienced....

I guess its a mixture of shock, anger, frustration, disgust and sheer sadness.

We arrive in a respectable neighbourhood, step into a decent looking house with clean white walls and floors, and are greeted by a well presented lady, Ana.

Latino music is blaring from the computer, a scruffy dog brushes against you as you take a seat on the unusually clean sofa. I spot a television and photos of Ana's children. I remember muttering to myself how distant from poverty this home is compared to what we have become accustomed to on our daily visits with Mision Consuelo. It's clean, has a roof, a good size with 2 rooms. A luxury.

Little do we realise what lay ahead of us.....

Our patient, Ana's mother, an 83 year old lady, with dementia and a past history of a stroke, lay in the outhouse.

Yes, a corrugated leaking roof, a gate for a door, exposed to all of nature's delights, cement walls, rubbish and the dog for warmth.....

She is munching on the dirty sheets, smelling of excrement and rocking to and fro aimlessly.

The daughter attempts to defend herself by saying in Spanish..." We are so poor. There are not enough rooms inside and we don't like the smell"

I dread to even think how long our patient has been left in the state. Let's just say, if RSPCA were around, they would have rescued her in an instant.

We attempt to change the situation by inviting the sisters of the Mother Theresa convent to the home. Unfortunately , there are no state care homes or laws to protect the elderly in Costa Rica. We hope the sisters will take her in. However, there's one condition and that's the family cannot visit her ever again...... It's interesting how the family quickly agree..

Our hopes are dashed when the sisters say she doesn't qualify??? The sisters take in street people, who have noone in this world, and not a penny to their name.

So we leave, despondent, hands tied behind our backs, frustrated and angry on how humans lack respect for others. Is there any justice in the world?

We take the sisters, to who I stand in admiration for the selfless work they do for the street people of San Jose, to another patient....

I guess, my favourite, for her laughter, permanent smile and endless warmth....

Amelia, resides in her garage, alone, in the damp and dirt, at 93, with leg ulcers and food provided by Mision Consuelo.

She qualifies. There's hope!

But guess what....she declines the offer and says that her next and final move will be to the cemetery....

Monday, 13 October 2008

Friday, 10 October 2008

Zipping....?!?!?

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!

Can't believe we finally experienced the zip lines of Costa Rican Rainforests.

I'm sure many of you are wondering what on earth they are. So let me explain. You are basically about 100 metres above the rainforest, perched on a tree, attached to metal rod by various ropes and suddenly you see yourself flying down this rod to the next tree!!!!

So I psyche myself up while I climb to the top of each tree. I hear people whisper into my ear,
" You can do this, just look at that 60 year old guy " ..or " the stats are worse if you drive a car" ...hehehe...

Little do I realise how high you are and how far away (approx 600 metres) the landing site is. So you will be pleased to know, I call for a "taxi", yup a guide, to take you across, so you actually enjoy the spectacular rainforest, do a few spins and land in one piece...hehehe....

the photos are on the way....

or check out... www.selvatura.com

A New Species.....

So we arrive in in Monteverde at 1pm, a place famous for the spectacular rain forest in the clouds and well worth the journey. Just a word of warning, the last 2 hours is pretty much on dirt track. Brace yourself for the bumpy ride but made plausible with the stunning mountain views.

Eager to see some wildlife, we booked ourselves onto night and day tours. Definitely worth every penny and always a wonder on how these guides spot reptiles in the wildlife...and in the darkness???!!!. We managed to see snakes, tarantulas at night and white faced monkeys and sloths in the day plus a bonus class on how to survive in the rainforest. The photos are on the way....

However, a moment I'm especially proud of, being zoologically challenged, while walking amongst the bushes, having just seen a sloth in the wild, I suddenly spotted something white..and moving...So I yell to the guide... so sure it must be another animal of some kind...
little to do I realise...out pops a human.....male....Yes a species...I should say ...yet to be studied and always a wonder...hehehehe....

Tico Time.....

Hola...Hola...

So our adventure continues in amazing Costa Rica..

We begin our journey at 6am from San Jose and hope to head to Monteverde by 11am.
That's right..another 5 hour bus ride but I'm sure it's worth it to see the forest in the clouds !!!

So the bus makes various stops along the way, people get in and out and we are enjoying the ride. Little did we realise, before we know it, we see signs for San Jose!!!!! What!??!! When did the bus turn around...hehehehe..

In our broken spanish, and frantic expressions, we manage to stop the bus by a roadside cafe. The time is now 9am. So..with further broken spanish we understand that we can wait for another bus to Monteverde.

...So it's now 9.45 and we are considering calling a taxi for the rest of the ride. Thanks to some kind english speaking waiters and an hour later with the addition of 3 phone calls, a taxi arrives on tico time.

All I have to say is my mother will be proud of my patience and my conversion into Tico Time!!

Thursday, 2 October 2008

Puerto Viejo, another little Paradise....

Hi all...Hola..

Sorry for the late report on another little find in Costa Rica..

After a 4 hour bumpy ride, in not one of the most comfortable buses, we arrived in a tiny, sleepy
town on the Carribean Coast, Puerto Viejo. That's Amy, I and a new found friend, Belinda , a fellow Volunteer from Hong Kong.

Carribean in every way from the rastas hanging out of the roadside bars...to the very chilled waiters taking about an hour to serve a meal...hehehe..

But not to worry, we soon got the hang of things and acclimatised to Carribean beach time.

I can't recommend enough Banana Azul. Hidden amongst the rainforest ,on the edge of the Carribean Sea, stood this idyllic and gorgeous hotel made of natural resources. The team are from Canada and serve your every need, including a special request to have dinner on our terrace. Truly a memorable moment, dinner with Frederique and Julia , a couple from the states , also ex students of Maximo Nivel. Under the stars with the sounds of the ocean..with the occasional yell from a mosquitoe bite...ahh...muy romantica..heheh.. Don't worry, no marriage proposals for our Amy!!!

Something must have been in the air because all our intentions of checking out local national parks went out of the ..terrace. Chilling...on the beach..on the terrace...with the swealtering heat...the occasional good book..and the sounds of Buddha Bar on the ipod was on my agenda!!

The only down point of the whole experience was my constant effort to dodge the 5 dogs in the open air restaurant and lounge...and beach...hehehe.. yes..I can hear many of you giggling in the background.

So if any of you are in need of peace, to be in touch with nature and to have a beach all to yourselves, head to Banana Azul ( www.bananaAzul.com ) and send my regards to Tony and Michel!!!

Friday, 26 September 2008

The Highs and Lows of San Jose..

It´s definitely been a rollercoaster of emotions this week...when at times we were reduced to tears and other times we were laughing so hard our stomachs hurt..

so here´s a snapshot of the lows and highs of the week..

Seeing an 80 year old patient with bed sores so deep you can see her muscle. She was in this state for 4 months, not being able to express her emotions and just taking paracetamol for pain...

Meeting a 60 year old lady who complained of her husband beating her for the past 4 years after his stroke....

To see a sufferer of Wilsons Disease involving his cerebral function and eye sight. Bound to the bed and just listening to the sounds around him.

but the definite highs were ...

enjoying mouth watering pineapple every morning for breakfast..
getting soaked in the tropical storm every afternoon..
laughing so hard at each other´s attempts at learning spanish..
charity work which included a visit to the hairdresser for Juan the pastor.. ?!!?
Hugs and kisses from patients when we leave...because for that one moment ..they may have forgotten all their troubles...
listening to latino music on the bus to work..
the swealtering sun on your back as you walk to work....

so heres to another week in amazing Costa Rica..

as the great philosophers say..
wherever you are now..is where you are meant to be....including paradise..heheheh

p.s off to Puerto Viejo...on the Carribean coast for a long weekend...
pps..staying at Banana Azul....

.....just a few more shots..



...can you see the mountains in the background??

Maximo Nivel



..Heidy at the school..

Snapshots of San Jose..